Galapagos Islands: the verdict (26/Jul-1/Aug/06)

Merida, Venezuela

We had arrived a couple of days before our island-hopping tour and so had some time to ourselves on the main island (Santa Cruz). You can't really get around the islands without a tour but there is plenty to do on the main island to keep you occupied for a few days. On the first day, after getting all excited after seeing our first iguana, we wandered off to a nice little beach with mangroves, more iguanas, and a stupid-looking bird with bright blue feet (blue-footed booby) which is a big favourite here. We both became big fans. On the second day we went in the morning to some amazing lava tunnels (the lava at the top becomes cold and solidifies, keeping the lava at the bottom insulated and therefore still liquid). The one we went in was about 8m high and over 1km long. In the afternoon we did a small tour to reach some parts of the island not accessible without a boat, and had a nice snorkel with loads of sea-lions. Quite happy so far, and we hadn't even started the tour.

One thing you have to realise about the tour is that the itinerary is purely for the benefit of the tour operator, not the passengers. Everything is optimised to the max. The last day of an "8 day tour" is basically a drive back to the airport, and the first day is a visit of a few sights on the main island (which you could perfectly do on your own), while the boat gets re-supplied and re-fitted. Also it can be sold as 2 legs, one of 5 days and the other of 4. In our case we were on the second leg of 4 days, plus an extra day in a hotel (sold of course at nearly the same price as a 5 day tour). As long as you realise this is the deal, and all boats do the same, you won't be disappointed: you need to subtract 2 days from your itinerary to get your real navigation time.

Went up to the airport (on Baltra, right next to Santa Cruz) to meet up with the group. Got on the boat, had lunch, and got started. Firstly we disembarked on Seymour North and went for a little walk. Immediately saw a heck of a lot more wildlife as on the main island. Plenty of sea iguanas and loads of boobies and frigate birds (which don't have decent waterproofing, so they attach the boobies in the air and steal their catch). After that we did a bit of snorkelling (amazing multicoloured fish, finished the film in the underwater camera) and then went back to explore the boat. The cabins were a bit small, but cosy and with hot water in the shower. There was also a nice terrace on top for chillin'.

That night we sailed to Genovesa. Nearly flat sea, but we felt like we would fall out of our beds. Luckily we had taken sea-sickness pills. Also amazing, this time we saw land iguanas which are much bigger and more colourful. Also did a spot of snorkelling, this time it was even better than the day before. From there we sailed at night to Bartolome. More walking, more animals, more photos. Really glad we bought an extra huge memory stick. From there we crossed quickly to Bachas beach on the main island, one of the most photogenic scenes of the islands. Snorkelling here was sadly not very good as the water was a bit silty. Still, managed to go a bit further and saw some nice corals.

Early next morning we did our last landing, on a beautiful cloudless dawn on Plazas (it had been cloudy until now, and later in the afternoon clouded over again). From there we went back to the port on the main island where a curious scene unfolded. Our guide had said he had to rest after this tour, but the boss turned up and said no way. So off went out guide in a huff and left the crew desperately trying to find a replacement. Our machinist Miguel (who had also just been sacked because of a motor failure deemed his fault) was the hero of the day and got his brother, a really good guide, on board. All that was left was a tour of the Darwin Station, which is where the giant turtle eggs for all the islands are hatched (otherwise poaching and introduced animals would have made them extinct). The turtles are "trained" and then sent into the wild when they reach 5 years old, though there are a few adult specimens, rescued from pet-hood, for the tourists (it is virtually impossible to see them in the wild, even if the islands are named after them).

The last day was a drive up to the airport, stopping briefly at a couple of huge craters for pictures. In fact they aren't craters, but the remains of a huge bubble of gas in the oozing lava. We flew back to Miguel's house, passing by the supermarket for a bit of wine and rum, and had another pretty big drinking session before collapsing next to the alarm clock, set for 7am.

To summarise: quite expensive, and not as impressive if you have already spent 6 months travelling and seen things like Peninsula Valdes, Ballestas Islands or Rurrenabaque's pampas. But probably worth it if you know how the tours work, as you get those 3 rolled into one, see animals you've never seen before, and at a distance of a few metres, and 400 photos can't be wrong.