Inca trail to Machu Picchu, the verdict (10-13/Jun/06)

Cuzco, Peru

So we’d heard mixed reports about the Inca trail (the 3 day-and-a-bit trek to Machu Picchu) and about Machu Picchu itself. This is probably the most touristy thing in the entire backpacker world and I wasn’t feeling too confident. Additionally it is extremely regulated due to the demand and therefore impossible to do without an agency, porters, and a hefty $280 investment per person. However, it had to be done (though I had definitely discarded buying the t-shirt), if only to be able to bore our grandchildren. There are a few unregulated alternatives which can be done independently (one of which’s first two days we’d done already when we visited Choquequirao) but they aren’t the real official thing endorsed by UNESCO (and Lonely Planet!) and all the rest of it. So we booked this thing in advance way back in January as this is the high season.

The first day we got on the tour bus and headed off to the “82nd kilometre”, had lunch and then ambled for a few hours to the first campsite. Not exactly hardcore trekking, and not exactly pristine wilderness (what with villages and electricity pylons) but we expected that on the first day.

The second day is the hardest, with the scary 4200m pass mentioned on the t-shirt. It’s not hard going if you have done any sort of trekking before and know that you are not supposed to run when going uphill (we were constantly amused overtaking panting trekkers that had overtaken us at high speed 5 minutes previously – the only ones that can keep it up at speed are the porters, carrying 25 kilos each). Here the scenery is much nicer, though you see a lot more people on the trail. Still, we were at the second campsite by 12, so loads of time to chill.

The third day is the most beautiful, with most of it through cloud forest (high jungle). But sadly the weather was appalling, with loads of low cloud and mist. Even so it was really pretty; it must be amazing on a clear day. We passed through a few of ruins on the way, mostly messenger rest-houses, storehouses, control points and agricultural terraces all Machu Picchu satellites. We went the long way round at the last bit of the trail and got to the last campsite, where we celebrated with a nice cold beer or five.

Fourth day we got up very early to get to the sun gate before sunrise. Not much point because of the mist, but while we waited it cleared a bit and we got our first real glimpse of Machu Picchu. And yes, it’s amazing. Even more so when we walked down to the main area. Here we decided to ditch the tour (our guide was a bit crap) and go up the Huayna Picchu mountain early as they only allow 400 people a day. From there you have anther amazing view of the whole complex. We went up & down like a flash as we had to be at the entrance for Esther’s parents.

They arrived amongst a flurry of (mostly Japanese) tours and the happy reunion took place. We hooked on to their guide (who was infinitely better than ours) and tried to pay attention to what he said and not talk too much amongst ourselves. After a lot of pictures we hopped on the train back to Cuzco and to our super duper hotel.

So was it worth it? I’d say $280 is a bit steep for a trek that isn’t more or less beautiful we’ve trekked through before. But hey, if UNESCO/LP says it’s cool I guess it is. It was actually better than I expected (but I wasn’t expecting much), a bit full of tourists and overorganised and overregulated but that’s life. In hindsight I’d have done an alternative trail with a mule to carry the food & equipment, but I wouldn’t have had hindsight without doing the Inca trail. Logical innit? And then Machu Picchu is absolutely amazing. Beats any ruins I’ve seen before.