Disaster of a trek (14-17/Apr/06)

La Paz, Bolivia

So we had not done the proper Sorata trek (Illampu) in Sorata. And we got a Sorata guide to do a trek in Pelechuco (Apolobamba). We'd arranged to pick up the guide halfway, saving us paying his trip and hotel in La Paz, but he said he wanted to go to the capital and would stay with friends there and pay for his fare. But then the agency changed guide. Anybody could guess a cockup awaited.

First the new guide turned up penniless, as he thought we were footing all expenses. Then, he'd failed to foresee the ticket office in La Paz for busses to Pelechuco would be closed as it was Good Friday. He also was unsure of the actual day or time the bus left so we said we weren't moving until we got tickets. The next morning the office was open, so we at least got tickets, but with the guide and porter spending 2 pointless days in La Paz. We'd also turned up with our bags as the guide said the bus would be loading that morning, which turned out to be completely false. At least they did the food purchase, though I wish they hadn't - we could have done it for cheaper and lighter (no matter, that's what the porter was for).

The stop is miles away, and we had to be there at 6am. No busses there (as initially promised) so early so we had to taxi it for a small fortune. We got on the bus with no lunch as the guide said we'd be stopping, only to find this was another figment of his imagination. Luckily we got some empanadas when the bus stopped for breakfast. We were beginning to wonder if he'd actually done this trek before at all.

The whole 12h bus drive was grey and foggy. We were accompanied by the melodious music of the same one tape over and over again. And had a sweet child vomit next to us. When we got to Pelechuco that evening we'd decided to pull the plug, no way were we going to risk even the slightest fog with these clowns, even though later that evening we could see a couple of stars. That meant returning for 12h that night (after we'd said no night busses!) as that's the only time busses return. So be it. We were glad to see the same bus driver (who we'd named Manu Chao for various reasons) still at the wheel. And the same tape was playing! 12h straight drive, 4h rest, 12h night drive. Great. Luckily he was munching coca leaves, so we fancied our chances he wouldn't fall asleep at the wheel. Left a bit late as they had to convince a stupendously drunk local he had to board NOW (expected more vomiting, or at least pissing in his pants, but all he did was fall off his seat a few times). Well, we didn't crash which is a bonus (though a car in front of us did). And we saw a bit of the scenery lit up by the full moon in a cloudless sky.

In summary, our 5 day trek through the best scenery in Bolivia (according to both Footprint and Lonely Planet) turned into an expensive 24h bus ride. We await a refund...